Engine Prep Checklist

• Install all parts and sensors on the engine, but leave off the air intak0e and fuel rail. We will lift the engine from the valley pan bolts.

• Install Accessory brackets

• Install Transmission adapter, as instructed in previous pages, including grinding the transmission bellhousing for clearance.

• Install Rover Oil Pressure Sensor using ICT Billet adapter

• Install Rover Coolant Temperature sensor into the extra port into the passenger side head. Remove the plug. Use thread sealant.

Engine Bay Prep

This is a good opportunity to wash your engine bay!

• Install LS Oxygen Sensors in place of the Rover ones. They will thread right in.

• Verify torque converter is fully seated. It should be 1 inch shy of bellhousing surface.

• Apply copper anti-seize to torque converter snout, and to the center bore of engine crank adapter.

• Cut off the Y pipe flanges on both sides

• Loosen the transmission mount nuts. This will help you move the transmission side to side.

Transmission Cooler Lines

Unfortunately the transmission cooler hardlines interfere with the oil filter location. We have to make our own AN transmission cooler hoses.

Gather all your parts: 10ft -8 AN braided hose, 4 hose terminations, 2 1/2" Hardline compression to -8 AN fittings, 2 1/2" hose barb to -8 AN fittings.

Cut the transmission cooler lines at the rubber sections, this will allow you to remove the transmission cooler if you haven't already.

Cut the both transmission cooler hardlines at the bellhousing, or further back, so that we do not interfere with the oil filter. Ideally use a plumbing pipe cutter wheel to cleanly cut the pipe without creating sparks and risking a fire.

Deburr the cut edge, and clean the outer surface of the hardline pipe with same sandpaper or emery cloth. The compression fitting seals on the outer surface of the hardline pipe.

Install the compression fitting. Follow this video for the correct installation procedure. Put the socket on the line first, the the compression sleeve, the the fitting. Make sure the fitting bottoms out against the pipe. Then hand tighten the socket onto it. Then tighten until snug with two wrenches.

Make a clean cut on both ends of the AN hose. We recommend using a cable cutter like this. But you can also put a hose clamp on the hose, then cut very close to the clamp with a grinding wheel. Should give you a pretty clean cut.

Install two ends on the AN hose. You can follow a video like this one. 

Attach the AN hose to the two compression fittings you previously installed. You have effectively created a loop. At this point, you can leave the lines as-is until you install the engine. Once the engine and radiator are installed, you can cut the line to size and route them to your transmission cooler.

Wrap the hoses in some heat wrap near the exhaust area.

Engine Install

Mount the engine onto a crane. We used a 2 Ton Harbor Freight crane, fully extended. We used a load balancer and lifted the engine from 4 valley pan bolts. Lift the engine up and over the engine bay. Carefully lower the engine into the bay making sure nothing gets caught or pinched. Try to level the engine with the transmission as best as you can. Place a jack under the transmission to lift it. 

Line up the engine and transmission to the best of your ability. The torque converter snout fill go into the crank adapter bore first, then you should be able to line up the dowel pins.

Grab two bell housing bolts and two yellow washers. Install them in the bottom two holes. Don't fully tighten them yet. You may remove the jack from under the transmission. 

Get out from under the car and go back to the engine bay. Look/feel the top of the engine. If there is a gap at the top, make sure the dowel pins are going in, lower the engine a little bit until the gap is no more than 1-2mm. Install a bellhousing bolt on top and tighten until there is no more gap.

Install the rest of the bellhousing bolts. There should be 9 total. Some bolts are easier to reach from the top, some from below. Use your crane to move the engine up and down, side to side, as needed. You can use a picture of the adapter plate to refresh you memory. Torque the bellhousing bolts to 35 ft-lb, if you can.

Torque Converter Bolts

Find the 4 torque converter bolts and apply blue threadlocker to all of them.

Remove the oil pan to access the flexplate bolt holes. Open the inspection hole at the bottom of the Rover bellhousing.

Using your fingers, rotate the torque converter until it lines up with the flexplate bolt holes. Verify that there is between 1/8" and 3/16" of space between the flex plate and torque converter. Install the first bolt and torque to 44-46 ft-lb.

Put a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and turn the engine 90 degrees clockwise. You should have access to the next bolt hole. Repeat until all 4 torque converter bolts are in and torqued.

Put the lid back onto the inspection port.

Oil Pan Install

If using the holley 302-5, or 302-3, or similar (e.g. Amazon copycat) install the oil pan according to the holley instructions.

Apply RTV to the 4 corners where the front cover and back cover meet the block. Apply a 5mm wide bead 20mm long.

Prep the oil pan with the gasket and 2 bolts to hold it in place. Lift the oil pan directly into position, and drive 2 bolts in to keep it in place. Install all of the oil pan bolts without fully tightening.

Now install the two bolts from the adapter plate to the oil pan. If the bolts don't line up, tap the oil pan to one side until they do (the oil pan bolts need to be loose enough to allow enough side to side movement).