Engine Selection Guide

Intro: Understanding the LS engine Family

General Motors’ “LS” engine family is a broad ecosystem of V8 engines produced from 1997 through the mid-2010s. Although people refer to them all as “LS engines,” it’s important to understand that the LS family spans multiple generations, each with variations in block design, electronics, mounting patterns, and intended vehicle applications. On top of that, LS engines were produced in both car and truck configurations, which differ in accessory layouts, intake designs, and displacement values.

Supported Engines: Gen 3 LS-Based Truck Engines

Our swap kit is compatible with GM’s Gen 3 Vortec 4800 and 5300 engines. These include:

LR4 – 4.8L Vortec
LM7 – 5.3L Vortec (iron block)
L59 – 5.3L (flex-fuel capable LM7 variant)
LM4 – 5.3L (aluminum block)
L33 – 5.3L High Output (aluminum block, premium variant)

These engines were used in GM trucks and SUVs between 1999–2006. All share identical external dimensions and mount locations.

Why we recommend a 5.3L Gen 3 truck engine

These engines are available in drive-by-cable configuration, which greatly simplifies the installation because it is compatible with the Land Rover's throttle cable. They were installed in millions of GM trucks and SUVs from 1999–2006. These vehicles are abundant, inexpensive, and easy to source parts for. Even if you want a crate motor, these are by far the least expensive.

What about 6.0L engines?

6.0L Gen 3 will bolt up and work fine. However, it is not our first choice. The 6.0L's torque (360-380 lb-ft) exceeds the torque rating of the 4HP22 (295 lb-ft) and 4HP24 (332 lb-ft) transmissions. You could potentially run a 6.0L if you have the stronger 4HP24, an upgraded transmission cooler, and possibly some upgraded internals. At your discretion.

What about Gen 4 LS engines?

Gen 4 truck engines share all the same mounting patterns for bellhousing, engine mounts, and accessory mounts as the Gen 3! So in theory a Gen 4 engine will bolts up just fine. One big difference is that the Gen 4 was only available with drive-by-wire throttle bodies. So you would have to remove the land rover gas pedal (it's welded in place) and install a drive-by-wire pedal. Some minor fabrication required. Or use a Holley ECU which allows drive by wire. You also won't be able to follow our wiring instructions exactly, but you can cross reference if you understand what you are doing. We haven't tested with a Gen 4 engine yet so you might encounter some other differences we're not aware of.

What about Corvette engines, 5.7L?

These will also bolt up, except the accessory drive is different. So you will have to figure our your own Alternator, AC, power steering mounts.

No matter which engine you choose, you will need to buy aftermarket exhaust manifolds and low profile oil pan. If the donor vehicle is not drive by cable, you will need to source a drive-by-cable 12200411 "red-blue" PCM and drive-by-cable throttle body. You can refer to our Additional Parts to Shop For page.

Below is a comparison of each supported Gen 3 variant, with pros and cons to help you select the engine that best fits your build goals.

Best Budget Choice: 5.3L LM7

The LM7 is the most common engine in the Gen 3 family and the "default" choice for most swaps.

Pros:

Low purchase price
Widely available used or remanufactured
Very strong iron block, tolerates hard use
Affordable parts, extremely reliable

Cons:

Heavier than aluminum models (approx. +80 lbs)

Also great: 5.3L L59

The L59 is simply a flex-fuel variant of the LM7. The long block is exactly the same between the two. The only difference is the fuel rail and injectors. No downsides compared to the LM7.

Pros:

Everything good about the LM7
Flex-fuel capability (if desired)

Cons:

Heavier than aluminum models (approx. +80 lbs)

Lightweight variant: 5.3L LM4

The LM4 is the lightweight 5.3L used in midsize SUVs. It offers the power of an LM7 with the weight savings of aluminum construction.

Pros:

~80 lbs lighter than the LM7
Same power figures as the LM7
Less corrosion compared to iron blocks

Cons:

Less common, higher purchase price
Less tolerant of abuse compared to iron blocks

Best premium choice: 5.3L L33

The L33 is the premium 5.3L of the Gen 3 family. It features an upgraded aluminum block, higher compression, and better flowing heads.

Pros:

~80 lbs lighter than the LM7
Highest power and torque of all supported Gen 3 engines (310 hp, 15hp more than the LM7)
Stronger rods and better heads than LM7/LM4

Cons:

Rarest and most expensive Gen 3 option
Premium price point can be hard to justify
Can be harder to source

Lowest Price: 4.8L LR4

The LR4 is the smallest LS of the truck family. Despite its displacement, it’s surprisingly capable, extremely durable, and could be the most budget-friendly option. It's also easier on your drivetrain components.

Be sure to get the SHORT CRANK version.

Pros:

Cheapest Gen 3 engine
Excellent reliability and long service life
Can rev higher thanks to shorter stroke
Easier on the transmission and drivetrain

Cons:

Heavier than aluminum models (approx. +80 lbs)
Lowest torque and horsepower output
Visually indistinguishable from the LM7, 4.8L can be mistakenly sold as 5.3L

Buying guide

Used engines

Buying a used engine is the most economical way. You can find great deals on facebook marketplace, car-part.com, ebay.com, your local junkyard... You can even buy full donor vehicles with running engines. With how durable and reliable the engines are, there's nothing wrong with taking a 200,000-mile LM7 from a running vehicle and putting that in your Land Rover with no modifications. It up to you, your budget, and your level of perfectionism.

What to take, what to leave

Take:

Alternator
Coils
Injectors and fuel rail
Intake manifold
Throttle body, if drive-by-cable
PCM only if RED/BLUE but some GREEN/BLUE PCM can be converted to DBC
Dipstick
All sensors, including MAF
Catalytic converters, if needed to pass strict SMOG testing

Leave:

AC compressor - we will use the rover one
Power Steering Pump - you will need a corvette one
Idler pulleys
Throttle body, if drive-by-wire
Wiring harness, we recommend buying new, unless you are dead set on DIY
Intake tubing and air filter box (but DO take the MAF)
Exhaust manifold (you can keep the passenger side in case you need to add back EGR)
Oil pan - you will need a low profile one
Spark plugs and wires - you should buy new
Water pump - you should buy new
Starter - we provide one in the kit

Suitable donor vehicles

Crate Engines

If you want a fresh engine without spending months rebuilding your own, crate engines to the rescue! For about $3000, you can have an LM7 delivered to your door in 7 days with all tinware and gaskets.

A lot of crate engines come upgraded for high horsepower, more than the transmission can handle. So look carefully and get a stock engine.

You will need to buy sensors, harmonic balancer, intake manifold, fuel injectors, fuel rail, coils, etc. Check out our build sheet here (link coming soon).

LM7/L59

This is what we used in the instructional video.

Jegs: https://www.jegs.com/i/ATK-Engines/059/VCT82WD/10002/-1

Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vre-vct82wd

You can find other LM7 crate motors on these sites, but the ones linked above come with all of the tinware (front cover, rear cover, valve cover, valley cover, and oil pan). Even though we have to replace the oil pan with a low profile one, this is the best value.

LM4

Jegs: https://www.jegs.com/i/ATK-Engines/059/DCTM/10002/-1

Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vre-dctm

These do not include tinware (valve covers, front cover, rear cover, valley pan)

L33

Jegs: https://www.jegs.com/i/ATK-Engines/059/DCHE/10002/-1

Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vre-dche

These do not include tinware (valve covers, front cover, rear cover, valley pan)

LR4

Jegs: https://www.jegs.com/i/ATK-Engines/059/VCTC2WD/10002/-1

Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vre-vctc2wd

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